Overview
The Yukata is a Japanese garment, similar to the Kimono, sometimes being categorized as an offset of it. The Yukata is a light-weight summer garment in the same shape as the Kimono. In modern times, the Yukata is prominently worn during festivals, as well as casually in traditional bathhouses in Japan.
Appearance
The Yukata overall has the same shape as the kimono and can be likened to a simplified version of the other garment. The Yukata is cut from one unit of fabric and of eight parts. “A standard piece of fabric measures 36cm wide and 1140cm to 1200cm long. In recent years, fabric of 38 to 40 cm width also became common.” (Bunka Fashion Research Institute, n.d.). Since the Yukata is typically worn in hot or humid environments, Yukata are often composed of cotton and traditionally unlined. Like kimono, Yukata could be designed using various methods, however dyeing was the most prominent, specifically the Shibori-zome method. As it became more common to create Yukata using cotton, there was the wide usage of the Ai-zome method of coloring Yukata. Ai-zome literally translates to “indigo dyeing.” The combination of various dying techniques and the use of
fermented indigo dye, patterned indigo Yukata became popular by the mid-Edo period (1603c.e.-1868c.e.).
History
The Yukata came about during the Heian period (794c.e.-1185c.e.)
and was originally known as the Yukatabira. “The katabira was made of asa-hemp or raw-silk and worn next to the skin as the innermost layer of clothing, basically underwear. Baths were not taken nude, rather the katabira was worn while in the sauna-style bath.” (Mack, 2014). The Yukata primarily developed during the Edo period due to the production of cotton in Japan. From cotton being affordable, light-weight, warm, and easy to dye, asa-hemp died out as the textile used for production. Due to the separation of genders in the public bath that occurred in the late 18th century, the Yukata’s function modified to being worn to and from the bath, rather than during.
Cultural Context
“Kabuki actors of the Edo period had signature designs for their
yukata, which then became fashion in the Edo period and adapted into
kimono designs as well. Many of these designs are still popular today for
men’s yukata, such as ‘yokikotokiku,’ ‘kamawanu,’ and ‘rokuyatagōshi.’”
(Mack, 2014). Yukata eventually experienced a revival during the 1990’s
which gave birth to the popularity of the festival Yukata. These modern
Yukata are typically worn during the summer, and feature designs related
to the season.
How to Wear Yukata
Citation
Mack, K., (March 2014). The History of Yukata Fashion: Part I Edo Period., retrieved from https://www.researchgate.net/publication/322908877_The_History_of_Yukata_Fashion_Part_I_Edo_Period
Japanese Traditional Clothing 